Simien Mountain Adventure:

Updates from Uncle Elephant:



Internet in Ethiopia
It is the dry season here in Ethiopia. Signs of want are found everywhere; bony goats shambling down alleys looking for sustenance, orthodox Christians mindlessly chanting and waiting to break fast and gorge, and the internet dried up and disappeared. Here at the Hard Rock café in Gonder the mango juice is fresh and the western style pizza reasonably good, but much like toilet paper in the bathroom, the internet is nowhere to be found. It’s a city-wide problem we have been led to believe; maybe we should check in four hours. (Of note, this post is being uploaded approximately 24 hours after that desperate paragraph was composed.)

Day One:

Friday afternoon after work we waited on the balcony of the guest house for Muloo to pick us up in the 4x4 to take us to the Simien Mountain National Park. The Simien Mountains extend north of Gonder and reach heights of 4500 meters. They are home of several endemic species including the Walia Ibex, the Ethiopian Fox, and the Gelada Baboon. Gorges, cliffs, rivers, waterfalls, mesas, and peaks make up some of the geographic features. We were all very excited to get out of Gonder for a three day weekend in celebration of Liz’s birthday. Fresh mountain air, natural sounds, and good exercise awaited. Sure enough a 4x4 trundled down our bumpy street to pick us up. We met Muloo and his driver Fasil and threw our bags in the back. Next stop was Muloo’s office to finalize our itinerary and our financial agreement. This is where the worm took a turn for the unexpected, as it often does for tourists abroad. We weren’t going to leave that afternoon and the price was about double what we had expected. After a noble attempt by Sonal to haggle with Muloo’s brother on the phone, we decided to go home and think it over. We debated the pros and cons over canned pineapple slices (a treat here in Gonder). On one hand we could organize our own trip on the other pay Muloo. Not being totally strapped for travel money, and realizing that the chance of headache and failure if we organized our own trip, helped us determine that we would pay Muloo’s price. It was a fine decision and as we cooked pasta with vegetables and berberi the general feeling was a relaxed and happy excitement for the coming weekend.

Day Two:

At 6:30am western clock (in Ethiopia they start their day at 6am and call it 12am, noon is 6am and midnight is 6pm) we found ourselves packed into Muloo’s 4x4 once more. After a stop by the only ATM in town we departed. Over the hill from the center of town the landscape quickly became rural and peaceful. The road was bustling with traffic, but not in a western sense; donkeys, mules, horses, chickens, goats, sheep and Ethiopians young and old were heading either to Gonder or Debark for the Saturday markets. The markets would be especially busy leading up to the Easter celebration and the breaking of a 55 day meatless fast by most of the population. Our driver, Fasil, was an expert with the wheel and the horn. The 4x4 had 279000 miles on the odometer and I guessed 6 hours continuous blast on the horn, although it could be quite more with all the ‘signal’ honks and ‘caution’ beeps and ‘hello’ soundings. It was a bumpy ride with all the road construction and ‘Ditours’ but after a few hours we were happily relieving our jostled bladders at the Simien Mountain Hotel in Debark.
After coffee and the hotel we picked up Dajen (our guide), Silent Bob (our scout), and Mr. Fantastic (our cook) and the 4x4 was packed. The scout functions as a park ranger and is required by regulation. They carry a rifle to protect the party and tend to follow along behind to make sure the park is treated well and to bring up the rear. Scouts get paid about $3 a day and mostly come from the villages that surround the park. Ours didn’t speak any English but was quite nice with a calm demeanor, good characteristics for the guy who carries the gun behind you. The guide is the tour leader. Dajen spoke fairly good English and was very knowledgeable about the park and politics and anything else we wanted to talk about. It was great to have an English speaking guide along, and I couldn’t imagine doing the tour without one. Guides make about $8 a day. Our cook introduced himself as ‘Mr. Fantastic’ so that is what we called him. At $5 a day he was well worth it. Always ready with buna (coffee) or a snack, Mr. Fantastic was in charge of cooking for the whole party, entourage included, the cost of which falls on the folks taking the tour. To round out the group there was Fasil, our driver. He was in charge of the 4x4 and driving it. Easy going and sure handed. Drivers make about $5 a day. So for three westerners we brought along and employed four Ethiopians. We could have tossed in a donkey and a donkey handler for about $3 a day each, but we had to draw the line somewhere.
With our entourage safely tucked in every corner of the 4x4 we still had enough time to pick up a few Gabis from the busting Debark market. Gabis are like a cross between and cloak and a toga and many Ethiopians still wear them, especially the shephards and rural folk. They are also great for sitting on in a 4x4. Only dirt roads from here on out, my back let out a groan. The seats in the 4x4 seemed to be lacking in the way of foam padding, much like all other vehicles I’ve sat in here, things get used to the max in this part of the world. Up and up we climbed, past villages, fields and folks with quadrupeds heading to market. The air was becoming noticeably thin as we finally approached the entrance to the park. The attendant with his attending children let us pass under the arched gate and we entered the Simien Mountain National Park!
The itinerary that Muloo had planned for us was pretty straight forward. Once inside the park, trek for 13km along the top ridge of the Northern Escarpment to meet 4x4 at Sanakbar campsite. The Northern Escarpment is the northern edge of the massive table of volcanic rock that is the Simien Mts. From on high one looks down onto a landscape that dwarfs our Grand Canyon. Looking along the escarpment one views cliffs of more than 1500 meters and gorges whose bottoms can’t be seen. In the raining season (June to September) waterfalls cascade off of the Northern Escarpment creating mists so thick the views are obstructed. These waterfalls eventually feed the great Nile River. Day two, trek to Geech Abyss, then meet 4x4 to take us 45km deeper into the park to Chenek camp site. At Chenek, baboons and ibex “100% guaranteed” and more views of the Northern Escarpment than one could dream of. Day three, drive all the way back to Gonder. It was a good itinerary for a three day weekend; some light trekking in thin mountain air (mostly above 3300meters) with plenty of fauna and landscape to gape at.
A few paces into our 13km hike and I was gasping for air. Level ground was okay, but any sort of incline caused haltingly heavy breathing. No worries, it was only 13km and we had plenty of time. Furthermore, any rest break was accompanied by plenty of good scenery, including Baboons. These critters were fun to watch. The standard group consisted of an alpha male, a harem of females and an assortment of youngsters, some so small they rode on the lower back of the females. They spend their days jabbing at tufts of grass with their fingers, unearthing the moist roots which make up 90% of their diet. The other 10% seems to be from the nits they glean off each other in their spare time. Currently there is a team of linguists and zoologists from the U. of Michigan studying the Gelada Baboon’s communication skills, which definitely seem to be quite language-like. The baboons are pretty used to people and share their space with other species of wild animals very well. They will come after trash and food though, so it is a good idea to keep an eye on them if they start creeping toward you. Standing up and taking a step toward them is all it takes to send them scampering.
Our day got better as we adjusted to the altitude, finding our pace, talking with Dajen and eating our ‘box lunch’ that Mr. Fantastic had prepared. On the path we came across many human inhabitants of the park. People have been living in the Simien Mts. for thousands of years, mostly herding goats and sheep with some farming when the summer rains saturate the soil. Many of these herders were taking livestock to the market all the way in Debark, a two-day journey but worth the income and the chance to purchase important goods. The local children herd animals and try to make a dime off trekkers by selling grass baskets and other trinkets. I would have paid handsomely for a bit of chocolate, but passed on the knick knacks. Ethiopian authorities are working to relocate the 5000 inhabitants of the highland parts of the park with little success. The damage done by livestock grazing threatens the endemic species and the natural balance of the park. I’m gonna side with the ibex and baboon on this one.
Just when I thought I couldn’t take another step we arrived at camp Sankaber. Mr. Fantastic and our driver Fasil were already at camp. Tea and digestive biscuits on a bed of popcorn were laid out for us and we basked in the early evening sun. The campground had a fair amount of trash strewn about and an infestation of Tick Billed Ravens. These birds are big and make throaty ‘quark’ing sounds, but are otherwise harmless unless one startles you on the way to the outhouse at night. Our tents were set up and our bedding prepared while we walked down the hillside for a better view of the Northern Escarpment in the evening night. We had a great viewpoint and sat enjoying each other’s company and chatting with Dajen about Ethiopian politics. Meanwhile, our scout was silently taking in the view 10 meters up the hill with his rifle across his lap. ‘I’ll get used to that’, I said.
Upon our return Mr. Fantastic had laid out bowls and served us a mighty tasty soup made with lentils, potatoes, onions and greens. Sonal and I both silently thought that the soup and bread was going to be it for dinner so we gorged ourselves. Liz must have been amused to watch our ravenous appetites for bread and soup. To our surprise a main course was served: braised greens, rice and corn, sautéed cabbage and carrots, and salad. We gorged ourselves all over again. After dinner it got dark quickly and we adjourned to the campfire with tea to share stories of survival and horror with the Dutch party and a group of Aussies who was sharing our camp. The moon was full and the night ripe for story telling. I was hoping to hear an Ethiopian ‘Bigfoot like’ legend but Dajen assured me that no such legends exist here. I think we was hiding something, maybe part of his training was not to scare the trekkers.
By 9:00 the fire had burned low and we headed to our tents to make ready for bed. One feel of the sleeping bag provided to us by Muloo and I knew we were in for a chilly night. I wouldn’t have rated that bag for summer use in Florida. ‘As long as it doesn’t have fleas, I can survive’, I thought. Two hours later when the temperature was dipping toward freezing I was singing a different song. I’d have rather shared a proper sleeping bag with an alpha male baboon and a legion of fleas than spend another night tossing and shivering in that bag. Oh yeah, this was only night one. I cursed Muloo throughout the night and snuggled up tight with Liz.

Day 3:

The morning sun rang in Liz’s 34th birthday and provided welcome warmth. It was a tough night sleep for all, even the entourage, but coffee, bread and eggs from Mr. Fantastic were great. We even got peanut butter with our bread! I had half a mind to ask the cook if we could hold on to the jar of pb after the trip for our personal use, but I found out where to buy some which was just as good. We packed up our gear and headed out for the morning trek. The going was easier than the day before and we made good time to the Geech Abyss. This was a special place. A bottomless gorge carved into the side of the Northern Escarpment by a major waterfall. Being the end of the dry season, the waterfall had been reduced to a trickle but the scene was stupendous nonetheless. I could only imagine the view in the rainy season with four waterfalls cascading down a thousand meters to the unseeable bottom. We sat and watched the Ravens and Vultures circle up and down in the abyss looking for mice or maybe a carcass of an unfortunate baboon. The baboons live in caves in the sides of these cliffs for safety from their main predator, the mountain Leopard.
From here we hopped in the 4x4 and motored all the way to Chenek camp site. This site was located at 3600 meters, higher that Sankaber, with some different flora and fauna. It is here that Liz and Dajen glimpsed a darting Walia Ibex on the hillside above. Dajen decided to lead us closer and we took our lunch within 20 meters of a small herd of these fellas. A troupe of baboons decided to join the party with hopes of food scraps no doubt. The ibex are amazing; like a cross between a bighorn sheep and a deer. Massive ribbed horns extend three feet from the head of older males. These creatures are rare, only to be found here. The Ibexes is also the name of the Ethiopian national football team.
While dinner was being prepared we hiked to another overlook to enjoy the evening light. This promontory jutted out and provided 360 degree views of the valley below, Sana Mountain, and the cliffs and peaks of the escarpment wall. We enjoyed the view from one of the concrete benches built by Austrian volunteers and positioned at most of the scenic overlooks. Dajen pointed out a small village far below and told us that that was where the scout lived. When the scout pointed out the trail he uses to enter the park I thought he must be part mt. goat.
When we got back to camp it was time for the birthday dinner. Mr. Fantastic prepared some pasta with onions and berberi, braised beets and cabbage salad. All was fantastic and the banana slices for dessert made for a nice birthday cake. Sonal and I sang ‘Happy Birthday’ as the sun was setting over the nearby peaks. Afterwards we had a mellow campfire and practiced our Amharic with Dajen and the gang. Ethiopians have an unspellable expression they often use as an affirmative. It is a short gasping sound that to the western ear would mark surprise. I have grown to like this expression, but be careful doing it while eating.
The cold was closing in as we grimly marched to our tent, pondering different Gabi blanket strategies and taking stock of all the clothes we could possibly sleep in. We wished Liz happy birthday once more and settled in for another difficult night’s sleep. I didn’t sleep more than an hour at a time (which made for strange dreams), and woke up shivering every time my body touched the freezing side of the tent. I couldn’t imagine how our scout could handle the cold. He was bedded down in the shelter of a bush with only a gabi to keep him warm. The rest of our entourage was without floor mats and had sleeping bags of equal quality as ours. The morning light and the sound of Mr. Fantastic starting the stove couldn’t have come sooner. You will hear of this Muloo!



Zoom in on those cold faces with fast unbroken and fingers unsensed.





Day 4:

We exited the tent before actual sunrise, if only just to jump around to keep warm. When the first rays crested the ridge to our east it felt heavenly. Breakfast was simple; a few eggy pancakes and more pb, honey and jam. Coffee was not served, most likely because we had used it all up. Liz’s face spoke for the whole group. As Fasil packed up the 4x4 we took one more look of the valley below. This was truly an amazing place.
The ride back was long and bumpy. The highlight being the sink at the Simien Mt. Lodge, the highest hotel in Africa. Washing my hands and face was euphoric, if only I could have gotten my whole body into that sink. The air in Ethiopia at this time of year is dusty and dry, and with a wind blowing the dust seemed to have gotten into every crevice. There wasn’t much to do or say on the drive. I found that waving to kids is one of my favorite pastimes on long drives in Ethiopia. They always seem to stare at any vehicle with blank expressions. Then you wave and their faces light up with smiles and they drop what they are doing and wave back, sometimes even taking a few steps toward the vehicle. A salute works well too and is often returned in kind with child like seriousness. I can’t help it, it is way too much fun when there is not much else to do. Older folks don’t go in for it, their expressions remain blank and almost bothered by the passing vehicle. We said our farewell to Mr. Fantastic, Dajen and our trusty silent scout in Debark and continued on to Gonder with Fasil behind the wheel. The horn of the 4x4 and the wind the only sound as we silently reflected on our trip.